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  Portuguese wines take their place in the sun
Sunday, May 09, 2004
By Tomas Clancy
This summer, Portugal will experience the largest invasion since Napoleon's Peninsular War, as it plays host to the 2004 European Championships.

Sadly, the Republic of Ireland team and its fans will not be there. Nonetheless, tens of thousands of Irish people will visit Portugal's Algarve for its beaches and golf courses this year.

Portugal has made huge moves towards the EU mainstream in recent years. The country was ruled by the ruthless and isolated Salazar dictatorship until 1968, and only entered the EU in 1986.

This isolation and self-sufficiency has created some very interesting side effects in the Portuguese wine business.

The seemingly unstoppable advance of the holy trinity of international grapes - Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay - was blocked at the country's borders. Portugal soldiered on with a huge range of local, wildly classified grapes.

Many of these grapes are unique to Portugal and produce an astonishing range of flavours. Grape names are also highly individual.

Although wine commentators such as Oz Clarke and Hugh Johnson see this diversity as a blessing, the sales figures for Portuguese wines tell another story. When consumers cannot remember or pronounce a wine or grape, it tends not to sell well.

To counter this, wine producers traditionally have two options: invent a brand, or market the wine so heavily that consumers cannot fail to recognise it.

The Sogrape company invented a brand with their iconic Mateus Rose. For many people, this ovoid-shaped bottle was not just the face of Portuguese wines, but of all wines. The branding was so successful that many were not even aware of the wine's origin.

Now a third way forward has emerged. Laudable new practices, coupled with investment from international winemakers, are making Portuguese wines so attractive that people are now beating a path to their wineries.

Flying winemakers, including the Lafite Rothschilds, and a bright, ripe, flashy set of world-conquering wines are now set to grab the world's attention.

This revolutionary idea has taken awhile to take root, because the Portuguese palate tends towards light, acidic wines, or even harsh, tart wines. However, new DOCs and all-important

Vinho Regional wine appellations are now fighting it out to be crowned Portugal's Ribera del Duero or Supertuscan-style superstar wine.

Here are some of the best and brightest Portuguese wines being imported by an every-expanding set of Irish wine merchants.

White

Esporao Reserva 2001, €15, Karwigs, Cork; Brechin Watchhorn, Rathgar; Wicklow Wine Company

A stunning, piercingly fresh rush of light white fruit, with touches of honeyed sweetness at mid-palate and a clean, perky finish.

Vale de Judia Branco 2000, €10, Molloy's Stores, Dublin; Champers, Castletroy; The Vineyard, Galway

This is slightly sweet,with a touch of oil and nut on the mid-palate and a sudden rising finish of good acidity and light lemon notes. An exotic and delicious Moscatel experience; perfect when chilled this summer.

Red

Quinto do Carmo 2000, €22, O'Brien's

The prime Domaine Baron de Rothschild (Lafite) venture in Portugal. A hugely rich wash of bold primary fruit, bursting with ripeness, awash in blackcurrant, dark chocolate tones and marvellous, savoury firmness. A classic in the making.

Terra do Zambujeiro 2000, €32, Jus De Vine, Portmarnock; The Vineyard, Galway; Martha's Vineyard, Rathfarnham

This is the cheaper of the two wines from the Quinta do Zambujeiro available in Ireland. While the €60 Zambujeiro is also outstanding, its baby brother offers glossy ripe luscious fruit, touches of blackberry, caramel, plum and burnt coffee, and a finish of intensity, complexity and great length, at a better price.

Splendidly opulent. Caso do Lago 2001, €11, Wicklow Wine Company, Wicklow; On The Grapevine, Dalkey; Galway Wine Company, Salthill; Cabot's, Westport

This is a jewel from the rising Ribatejo region. This is a beautifully glossy wine, with a rich perfume of strawberry and blackberry brambles.

The wash is intense, ripe and luscious. The weight of fruit is palpable. Touches of crushed berries, plum and black coffee abound, yet the mid-palate and finish are essentially soft. An alluring, well sourced and well priced wine.